Showing posts with label white. Show all posts
Showing posts with label white. Show all posts

2 August 2015

The 'White' Trend and Dior: An Analysis





“White is so pure and matches everything” –Christian Dior



Figure 4: The White Trend seen through Various Designers: (from left to right): Dior, Anya Hindmarch, Hermes, Moncler, Louis Vuitton, Paul & Joe, Valentino, Velentin Yudashkin, Chanel, Veronique Branquinho, Elie saab, Rahoul Mishra, Chloe, Kenzo, John Galliano, Undercover, Vionnet.)


Figure 5: Dior Spring/Summer 2015 Dior.
 “It’s enough of a statement to be tall- I don’t need clothes to be loud” –Victoia Sekrier (Stylist and Model)



Figure 6: Christian Dior working on a collection with Marguerite Carrie, Spring collection 1947


Figure 7: Marylin Monroe wearing a white fox fur stole; white silk dress, white gloves, with her blonde hair, and pearl earrings. White silk is the perfect texture and light reflecting colour for Black and White Cinema.
Figure 8: Diana Dors reclining on various white fox fur stoles, wearing a silver light reflecting body suit, with her blonde hair, white diamond earrings, again, white being a perfect colour for the black and white screen.

From New York to Milan, from Paris to London; a sea of white took over the runways. White trenches, white pumps, cream dresses, were some of the main attractions at various designers shows. However Dior’s SS15 collection epitomised this collective trend.  Why is it here? Minimalism. I believe that the reason white is so popular now, is not necessarily because it’s an irresistible choice of colour, but because of what white represents.

The 21st century is the busiest century yet. We are running a speed that we’ve never run before. With such a chaotic world around us, minimalism, in all its forms, is a safe haven for the modern mind. White and minimalism go hand in hand; white is technically not even a colour. No wave lengths for our retina to pick up, it is the most effortless virginal pure ‘colour’. Minimalism and white nowadays brings our minds to a halt, and fills it instead with simplicity, peace and serenity.

When white was first seen as a trend? Believe it or not: the 1930’s depression. The Blonde, Bosomed, Bombshells of Hollywood, swathed so sensually in white silk, were the vision of the light at the end of the tunnel during the depression. With the introduction film, actresses had the huge task of holding capturing an audience’s attention with no colour or words.
The 1940’s starlets Marilyn Monroe and Dina Dors (see figures 7, 8) were the masters of this trade. Their blonde hair, white fur, silver bodysuits, red lips, bias cut body-clinging white silk, diamonds and pearls were all magnificent on black an white screen. These stars portrayed a lifestyle that made the 30’s not look so bad, and the way for women to taste this life was to wear Hollywood White.

Dior now must have been inspired by Dior then: Dior’s designs were seen in Alfred Hitchcock’s film ‘Stage Fright’ in 1950’s, peaking demand for Dior Couture at the time. Perhaps Raf Simons for his SS15 collection looked back onto the power of white in the 20th century and decided to resurrect it in the 21st. (See Figure 6)

However, now we have colour and sound and are no longer in the depression, why is it back? It’s resurgence is down to three factors. Firstly and predominantly, minimalism is a strong theme throughout all of the SS15 shows because in 2015, we are going to be busier, faster, and more chaotic; if we want peace and clarity now, we are only going to want it six times more in six months time.
Secondly, in spring and summer, white has always been a trend. White, eyelets, florals, embroidery, all seem to be details that rhyme with the notion of a New Year, a fresh start, a blank canvas, a new growth, optimism.


Finally, white is a trend because it is powerful. Women are at a tipping point vis a vis equal rights between man and women. Raf Simons stated that this collection was redefining the modern woman. Is the modern woman not equal to man? Maybe all us women need is a trend to unite us all with that same power and message to inspire one last push into modernity…

22 May 2015

Backstage at London Bridal Fashion Week!



I had the wonderful opportunity of being able to work backstage at London Bridal Fashion Week these past three days! I was a dresser backstage for the fashion show part of LBFW. I was assigned a model (the lovely Sarah) and I was to help her change from one dress to another. Now there weren't that many models and each model had up to 8 dresses: so the role of dresser was an important one. 

Sarah was lucky/unlucky enough to be in almost all of the shows. This was a challenge for us both, because after every walk she was almost immediately needed again! 
Considering many of these dresses were made with the idea that brides have a morning to get their wedding dress on: many of the 100's of buttons you see aren't made to be buttoned up in 2 minutes.
But we made it it work; we had a whole team of dressers and everyone was hands on board helping me or each other. After a few times, that lace up dress that needed to be unlaced to the bottom to get on, and laced up to the top again in under two minutes, could be done in one minute.
Everyone took initiative and was helping each other out, we were a real team.

Overall, working backstage was a lot of fun. The organised chaos and pressure to get your model dressed just right and on time just had us all pumping on adrenaline the whole time. We loved it.

After show time, we went from an extreme high to a mellow low: watching gossip girl, chatting and steaming dresses, talking tips with the makeup artists, celebrating with a glass of wine with one of the models, Claire, who had just handed in her last university english lit paper that morning, down at the champagne bar. It was a lot of fun: just one giant hang out with all these new people; who had great stories and talents, but all of us with one thing in common: working in fashion.

Aside from the glamour you associate with a VIP backstage access... 
this is what working backstage at London Bridal Fashion Week really looks like!







Building the venue....


Bringing in these delicate beautifully crafted one of a kind goods... by the truck full!




Phoebe testing the runway on rehearsal day. Marieke having a little fun during fittings.



Girls trying on the dresses for the first time.


A beautiful mess.


Sarah and I attempting to look ethereally bridal...




The back to one of my favourite dresses worn by my model Sarah...





The back of one of Phoebe's dresses. Sarah pre-test-catwalk.


                

The venue was the Old Billingsgate Exhibition centre which was totally transformed for fashion week. We had the best view of the shard and other bits of the City's monuments.



I put on my sunny coloured rain jacket one gloomy morning and by the time I arrived... sun!
Thankfully it was sunny throughout most of the three days!


Enough makeup to paint a room. Or sit on my bathroom shelves. 
They should be on my bathroom shelves.


Camilla, Sharon and I steaming away at our dresses to be ready for the first show!


10:00: buyers, individual customers, and general LBFW attendees flooded into the exhibition room.





Marieke being a goofball t-minus 3 minutes to showtime.  Makeup team dealing with sweater fluff!


Tricky at times: working around fashion publication teams filming backstage.


The lovely Claire and Phoebe ready to walk.


Sarah being a hero and sewing up a dress that ripped down the back mid show! Disaster!


Seeing as this was my favourite dress, once we fixed it, just to be sure it was still pretty, 
I held it up against me and took a picture. (for good measure of course)



Visiting the exhibition downstairs on our lunch break! 

Below: How to tie a perfect bow, and the many lovely faces of Nina.








Sweet bridal decorations at the champagne bar and cafe...





Leanne ready to walk!


Chilling in the exhibition hall with the paper flowers...


Veil galore.


Real flower decorations + a real Josephine decoration...


Phoebe's lovely long train and dress... and chilling with Marieke while getting her makeup done!



The models working at the exhibition trying on dresses for buyers and customers.


Our models upstairs ready to walk the designer dresses down the catwalk.


Makeup team hard at work: and the makeup instruction sheets for each of the four shows that occurred each day. (Alternating from A:Designer and B:Bridal)




Sarah and Nina rocking the red lipstick that was assigned to this designer show!



Most expensive dress backstage being steamed! Yikes.

and lesson learned: sticky tape solves everything. Crisis with Claire's slippery shoulder dress solved!



Group shots, one elegant and one silly! (Don't mind Marieke's missing foot... it's naturally shy)



Leanne enjoying a pre-catwalk lotion massage!!








My two favourite photo's! Marieke, Claire, Phoebe and Leanne.






The sheer and the embroidery and the buttons, oh my! Phoebe's dress. Phoebe again with Leanne! 




Emma and Sarah sitting pretty on the catwalk like two cupcakes! Marieke and the designer of Ritva.


My dresses organised and ready to go. (They needed to be with a two minute quick change!!)


Last show: just as soon as we have it all down to a T.


Camilla and I with our backstage passes.


Half an hour after the show all taken down.


The two snapchats that made it onto the London Story! Seen by 112,000 people!

And that's a wrap! Until next year LBFW!!




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